A plumbing system may produce any number of noises – but it should not. Each noise tells you something about what is calling out for correction. You simply need to interpret the sound to use the cure.
A “chattering noise” when a faucet is switched on or off, can be most bothersome, and may make you think that the entire system is about to split up at the seams. It is not generally all that serious; the issue is likely within the faucet itself.
Examine to make sure that the faucet washer is snugly screwed to the stem. It needs to be changed even though the faucet is not leaking if the washer is put on. Examine the threads on the back stem for indications of wear. If the stem (after being screwed back into the faucet) can be gone up and down, this is a certain indicator of thread wear. Either the stem or the whole faucet need to be changed.
Pipes “rattling,” as water travels through them, may not be fastened safely. If they are accessible (as in a basement or crawlspace), install extra clamps to fasten them firmly to the joists.
On the other hand, a “ticking sound” might indicate that a pipe is attached too snugly – cold pipelines will broaden a little as hot water enters them, triggering this sound if there is not adequate expansion space.
A “whistling sound” is triggered when water under pressure must pass through a point of limitation. If your toilet “whistles” as it is being filled up after flushing, attempt cutting down the flow by shutting the supply stop a little (the supply stop is the valve below the toilet that governs the flow of water into the tank).
“Water Hammer” is a loud, banging sound that takes place when a faucet is shut down swiftly. Behind every component, there need to be an air chamber which provides a cushion of air to take in the force of the rushing water – and the accompanying noise. There are lots of different types of air chambers, in addition to the simple pipe-and cap type, but all deal with the same concept. If the chamber ends up being filled with water, its cushioning effect is jeopardized.
To “recharge” the air chambers, closed down the whole water supply system at the major valve, and totally drain the systems. Open all the faucets to enable air into the system, then close the faucets and turn on the major valve. If water hammer still continues, you could have to knock out a couple of walls to set up new air chambers at the trouble spots. While this might look like an extreme option, it is probably more suitable to risking a burst pipeline because of the condition.
A possible option is to install a large air chamber at the major intake valve. While there is no guarantee, this often works to ease the issue.
A plumbing system might produce any number of sounds – however it shouldn’t. A “whistling sound” is caused when water under pressure must pass through a point of restriction.”Water Hammer” is a loud, banging sound that takes place when a faucet is shut off swiftly. Behind every component, there should be an air chamber which offers a cushion of air to soak up the force of the rushing water – and the accompanying noise. Open all the faucets to permit air into the system, then close the faucets and turn on the primary valve.